Making A Bad Soil Good

 

Do you have a hard, clayey material in your backyard, with which you expect to grow a fecund garden? Or perhaps a sandy soil with no nutrients to offer your much loved plants? Well do not despair, there are ways to improve soils.

soils What Makes a Good Soil?

What constitutes a good soil really depends upon what you want to use it for. Generally, good soils are loose enough to dig in easily; and excess water drains away freely, but it remains moist days after it has been watered.
For some types of hardy plants, a good soil might be one with minimal friability, and nutrition. For water loving plants, a good soil might be one with minimal drainage.
For most plants though, a good soil drains freely, is fertile (contains plenty of nutrients), holds moisture (doesn’t dry out too quickly after watering) and is loose (can be dug in without a lot of effort).

How to Treat Soil over Winter
If you live in an area where the soil stays wet and heavy for most of winter, you can still do things to improve it. For example:
  • Don’t dig very wet soil and don’t walk over it or compact it with vehicles or heavy machinery.
  • Drench the soil with a hose-on clay breaker.
  • Add layers of organic matter to the surface. This will protect the soil from erosion (from heavy rain) and compaction. It won’t break down as fast as in warm weather but it will gradually rot and improve the soil.
  • When the soil dries out, a drainage system could be installed to minimise the problem next winter.

How to Improve your Soil
All soils used for growing plants will benefit from additional organic matter, but the different particle sizes of the different soil types require different solutions.

dynamic lifter Clay Soil
Clay soils tend to be have a high plant nutrient content, but they are both difficult to water and easily waterlogged. Clay soils can be improved by cultivating the soil and adding gypsum (clay breaker).

Sandy Soil
Sandy soils usually have excellent drainage and low nutrient levels. They are also susceptible to wind and rain erosion. They can be improved with organic matter.

Rocky Soil
Rocky soils can’t be cultivated and are usually very low in plant nutrients. In this situation the cheapest option may be to build garden beds on top of the existing soil. This can be done by importing soil to the site or by using the No Dig gardening method. Simply build up the soil by laying down layers of organic material such as compost, newspapers and lawn clippings.

Improving Soil Fertility
Plants need nutrients to grow; and any soil can lose its supply of nutrients over time if you don’t replenish them.
The best way to do this is to keep adding compost, manure, or mulch – every year, if not more often. As these materials decompose, they release nutrients, maintaining a high level of soil fertility.

Fertilisers should be used as well, to supplement or top up the plants’ nutrient requirements. Don’t depend totally on fertiliser though: it just isn’t enough in most cases. Inorganic fertilisers can also cause environmental damage when used over long periods.

Compacted Soils
Because clay soils are made up of very small particles, they can be easily compressed together by the weight of vehicles or pedestrians. This results in soil that either repels water, or once wet, is unable to dry out. It is also low in the oxygen needed by plant roots.

Aerate compacted soils by digging them over and mixing in loose material such as compost or washed sand. Another way is to use an aerating tool that creates holes in the surface; then spread a sandy loam around to fall into those holes. (This technique is used in the turf industry.)

Soils to Build On
Soil needs to be solid if it is to support a wall, building, steps, paving or any other structure. You might need erosion control, rolling, compacting, grading, etc, if you are going to construct a path, driveway, wall, building or any other structure.
When planning to add a structure to your garden, make sure you are doing it on stable ground, or else stabilise the ground before building. If you plan to invest a lot of time or money in building something, you should seek advice from an engineer or landscape professional before commencing.

Stabilizing Soil How to Stabilise Soil
Shallow fill (eg. 10-30cm) may be settled by watering thoroughly and compacting with a machine (eg. vibrating plate or roller – these can be hired). If possible, leave it for six months before constructing anything on the surface.

Deep fill can take years to settle, even with compacting treatments. If building in under three years, you may need stronger, reinforced foundations to prevent structural damage.

Slopes and Erosion
Erosion can be a problem, particularly on steep slopes. Soil can be stabilised by creating retaining walls, terracing, installing drainage or grading the soil.

So, if you are willing to do a bit of background homework and possibly a bit of hard labour in the backyard, there is hope for your soil, no matter how bad it seems!

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Commercial Hydroponics 3rd edition

One of the worlds best selling hydroponic books, first published in 1991 by Kangaroo Press. Dozens of colour photos, unique and rarely published advice on how to grow over 100 different types of plants (vegetables, herbs, flowers, indoor plants) in hydroponics.  http://www.acsebook.com/products/2232-commercial-hydroponics-third-edition.aspx

The Environment of Play 2nd edition
A unique and inspirational view of designing play spaces for children. Full of photos, an inspiration for parents, child care workers, teachers, play leaders, landscape designers and park management professionals. First edition was published in the 1980’s by Leisure Press in New York.     http://www.acsebook.com/products/2247-the-environment-of-play.aspx

Growing Trees and Shrubs for Small Gardens 2nd edition
First edition published by Kangaroo Press/Simon & Schuster.    http://www.acsebook.com/products/1684-growing-trees-and-shrubs-for-small-gardens.aspx

Tropical Plants 2nd edition
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Trees and Shrubs for Warm Places First edition   A valuable reference for growing plants not only in the tropics and sub tropics, but also greenhouses, inside the home or even hot courtyards in a temperate garden. Never before been published. The book contains colour photos of close to 300 plants and descriptions of many times that number (and largely different to the plants covered in our Tropical Plants book).  http://acsebook.com/products/2238-trees-and-shrubs-for-warm-placescoming-soon.aspx

Garden Design Part 1    1st edition
A huge book with around 300 inspiring colour photos; that explains how to design a garden in a way that is able to be understood by a beginner, but full of tips and ideas that can help even seasoned professionals.    http://www.acsebook.com/products/2242-garden-design-part-1.aspx

Garden Design Part 2    1st edition
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Starting a Nursery or Herb Farm 3rd edition
Another best selling print book, now available as an e book. Previously published by Night Owl (first ed) and Simon and Schuster (2nd ed).   http://www.acsebook.com/products/2241-starting-a-nursery-or-herb-farm.aspx

Starting a Garden or Landscape Business 2nd ed.
Previously published by Simon and Schuster; this is a must read for anyone wanting to set out on a career in horticulture.  http://acsebook.com/products/2239-starting-a-garden-or-landscape-business.aspx

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Bodnant Garden

Bodnant Garden

Bodnant is the home of Lord Aberconwy who was president of the Royal Horticultural Society in the U.K.

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